I sat in a dark dirty corner of the Tenderloin. This wasn’t my neighborhood, but I liked visiting. We all need a little filth and degradation now and then. Someone to start screaming at you about a missing hat or the great white conspiracy to build a Caucasian-only city of shimmering diamond towers outside Fresno.
The Asian bartender had a thick accent. She was chatting with a guy who looked like a shrunken trucker. They were talking about where to get the best martini in town, which seemed like a strange topic for a shrunken trucker to get so uppity about. He had passion.
It was early Saturday evening and I didn’t have any plans for the night. I’d gone to the library earlier, then sat in the park of limbless trees in front of City Hall and browsed the books I’d borrowed, some slim volumes of poetry. More times than not, I have no idea what poets are talking about. But it was appealing: the feel of the book in your hands, its portable condensation of experience and thought. The pretty symmetry of the lines. Keys locked in a key-box.
After awhile of just sitting around and looking at people, at the books, the wind started kicking up, so I’d decided to get a beer up the street.
The martini debate was getting more heated. I browsed the news on my phone, words and images like bile oozing over the screen: corruption, fraud, cronyism, our Democracy hard at work. I used to get more worked up about things like that. I used to have higher standards. I’m not sure that’s the same thing as idealism. The road foreword sometimes looks very much like the road backward. People speak like they know.
A 1970s rock song came on the jukebox. It was a song that used to cause sentimental swellings. It used to bring me back to sunshined beaches and snow-covered pines, but now I felt nothing. I wondered if that feeling would come back. I can’t say I felt nostalgia for nostalgia, but I missed it, that feeling. Something to infuse life with—I don’t know—meaning, consequence, context? Somehow these had become distant luxuries.
“Oh, bullshit, the President doesn’t even like martinis!”
My phone vibrated across the bar-top, a flash of message received. It was a text from Bob, this guy I didn’t really get along with, an acquaintance of a friend. For some obscure reason he liked to hang out with me. We messaged back-and-forth: he wasn’t far away, in one of the tourist districts, at a kitchy Gold Rush bar. He’d met a couple of outlandishly buxom women visiting the city and looking for adventures.
Then I was drunk telling stupid jokes and people were laughing because sometimes I can even get funny when I’m drunk. The woman Bob was interested in was obnoxious and loud, pretty much his soul mate. She spoke like someone had wound up her mouth for several days and let the crank go. Her friend had nothing interesting to say and she had that creepy generic California blonde look, but she had attractive boobs. She was the kind of woman I would’ve avoided back when I lived in L.A., but now enough time had passed to give her the slight appeal of the exotic.
Bob liked to play the vagabond artist role, only he didn’t make any art. Still, it was surprisingly effective. He was energetic and enthusiastic, which goes a long way among moody smoldering types and generally uninspired go-with-flow folks. He was a low-grade explosive, irritating, loud, interesting for a little while.
L.A. Woman: “So were you like totally going crazy when the Giants won!?”
SF Faux Vagabond Artist: “I can’t believe you like sports. Only stupid people like sports. You’re not stupid, right? I hope not, because I don’t like to date stupid girls.”
L.A. Woman: “That’s like got nothing to do with it.”
SF Faux Vagabond Artist: “That’s not even a real name. It’s adjective.”
L.A. Woman: “No, dude, it’s a noun.”
SF Faux Vagabond Artist: “Giant what? Giant jock asshole? That’s an adjective.”
L.A. Woman: “What’s wrong with you?”
SF Faux Vagabond Artist: “I like grammar.”
L.A. Woman: “Seriously, do you have Asperger’s or something?”
SF Faux Vagabond Artist: “I really don’t think that’s any of your business. Are you on medication? Do you have hemorrhoids? See, you don’t see me asking questions like that. I’m just not that kind of person. I’m not sure I want to hang out with you.”
Then he started dancing around like a marionette with a snapped string, twirling awkwardly in crooked circles.
The other hard to handle thing about Bob was his coke habit—he’d deny it whenever directly confronted—something that was a bit incongruous with his hobo musician look. And he had a knack for sniffing-out similarly inclined women. I don’t like coke. I prefer slow pleasures, not euphoric chatty highs that quickly vaporize unless you do more, then more, then guess what? But I do that: get involved with crap just to do something, keep the night going. What can I say? You get bored.
Then, not like a dream but an error, a disruption in continuity, we were in their hotel room. It overlooked Union Square. Union Square used to feel like an actual square, a leisurely public green in the heart of the city. Now it was artificially raised, more concrete than grass. I supposed there were rationalizations made for the considerable changes, but it felt like a mistake. Good cities have all things, including fantastic mistakes.
The lights around the square were attractive, though. Made you feel detached from mortal concerns. Took you outside.
There were cackles, guffaws, something like a bark. I turned to the room’s crowd. They brought me back to the mess and disappointment of the actual living life. Suck it up, dude.
Bob was cutting lines of cocaine on a nightstand that he’d pulled out in front of one of the twin beds. He was talking about an after-hours club down by the Bay, a place he tended to go. I’d been a couple of times. It’s the kind of place that can be totally dull, or, on the other hand, where you can find yourself debating films with someone who’s probably a bona fide gangster.
The one talking to me said, “It’s not something I would go out of my way to get. But if someone puts it right in front of me, I’ll do it!”
Then she leaned over and inhaled a line, her weirdly tanned boobs nearly falling out of a shopping mall top.
“I know what you mean,” I said.
Bob decided we should go to the Starlight Room. He claimed he knew someone who worked there. The friend was absent when we arrived, but it wasn’t too crowded, so we found a seat. We were all underdressed, though some tourists in the room considered shorts and Alcatraz T-shirts appropriate attire for one of the fancier, more storied spots in the city. We lucked out and even got a seat near the window.
The view was stunning. You could see the whole city, the towers and the hills, the hilltop towers. And our approaching server, reflected in the window, was also a real beauty: the seductive city gracefully rendered in flesh. She looked like someone out of a proper noir. She was elegant, a simple black dress. Her movements were slow and deliberate. A simple sizzling gesture was how she suggested we should order. You imagined she might quietly yet firmly push you off a rooftop just for the hell of it.
“Yeah, I snorted coke right off her ass!” Bob boasted to his short-term soul-mate. The girls laughed. They obviously found his crudeness slightly offensive but comical. They were off on an adventure, so normal etiquette need not apply. Later, they’d do nothing but mock us, what a pathetic joke, but now let’s have fun!
Bob, and the evening’s companions, were grotesque when compared to the server’s stylishness. Not that I was any part of this city-top world—upon entering, the door guy had given me dirty looks, which I gratefully reciprocated. But I couldn’t blame him, really. In a sense we were sullying the Room’s gleam. I was as much a tourist as the others.
We ordered. There was nothing verbal, just a nod of understanding, subtle disapproval. I felt attraction and contempt. I looked at the faces of my companions flickering along the table. They seemed monstrous yet silly. What was I doing here? I should just go home. Watch TV while eating a burrito. Instead, after sucking down the cocktails and now crammed into a spice-infused cab, we rose high over the city, hurtling toward the after-hours club, another bad idea.

